Sellers photograph the front of the box. Almost everything you need to know is somewhere else.
Ask for
Every face of the box, especially the back and the bottom, where shelf wear and crushing show.
The contents laid out, so you can count them rather than trust a word like "complete".
Joints worked, for anything articulated — loose joints are a real condition fault and they do not photograph.
Paint, close, under even light.
Then ask the three questions
"Is anything missing?" — specific answers are a good sign. "Is anything a reproduction or a replacement?" — common, fine, should be declared. "Has it been displayed in sunlight?" — the polite way to ask about yellowing.
Sealed items
A seal is a state, not a certificate. Ask how long the seller has had it and where it came from, and know that nobody can settle a sealed item's history over a video call. If that matters at the price you are bidding, bid less.
Set and series buying
If you are completing a set, say so in the chat — sellers often have the rest and will run them. That is one of the things a live room is actually good for.
What protection covers
Missing pieces that were described as present, undisclosed reproduction parts, damage not shown, or a box that arrives crushed because it was posted without an outer box: all not-as-described, seven days from delivery.
Questions people ask
Does yellowing come out?
Treat it as permanent when you decide your number. Anything else is a gamble.
Is a crushed box worth buying?
At a crushed-box price, often yes, especially if you want the piece and not the packaging.
What is "mint in box"?
Unplayed, complete, in its original box — with the box's own condition described separately. Condition words.