Graders assess four things, and a photograph can show all four if it is taken twice.
The shot that sells
Front, square on, filling the frame, even daylight. Clean, sharp, nothing in the background.
The shot that prevents the dispute
The card tilted under side light. Print lines, scratches and surface wear only exist at an angle.
The list
- Front, square on, parallel to the camera
- Back, square on — centring reads there
- Tilted, both sides, under raking light
- Four corners, close
- Edges, especially on dark borders
- For slabs: the label readable, and the case checked for cracks
Squareness matters more than anything
Centring is a measurement and the camera must not add to it. Shoot directly above, card flat and parallel. An angled shot makes a centred card look off and costs you money for nothing.
Light
Daylight, indirect, no flash. Holographic parallels bounce a flash straight back and the frame is lost.
Measuring on camera
For a valuable raw card, lay a ruler alongside and shoot square on. Modern cards are a standard size, and a trimmed card measures short. What cards are worth.
What goes wrong
Shooting through sleeve glare, holding the card in the air, and photographing only the good corner. Common mistakes.
Questions people ask
Can I photograph a card in a toploader?
For listing, yes. For a buyer deciding on condition, take it out or expect questions.
Is a phone enough?
Yes. Light and squareness matter far more than the camera.
Should I film a lot?
A slow pass across fanned cards works well and saves forty photographs.