Two frames, and the relationship between them is the sale: this signature, on this object.
The shot that sells
The whole item, flat or hung, in even daylight, with the signature visible in context.
The shot that prevents the dispute
The signature, close, still, in neutral light. Warm indoor light flatters ink and hides fading; daylight does not.
The list
- Whole item, so the signature can be placed on it
- Signature, close and square on
- Labels, sizing and any numbering on a shirt
- Maker's marks on a bat or ball
- Any certificate, with the issuer's name readable
- Any photograph of the signing, which is the strongest frame you will ever have
- Condition faults, separately and deliberately
Light
Neutral and diffuse. Never a flash on a glossy photograph or a framed piece — it comes straight back.
For a signature on fabric, light from the side a little so the ink sits above the weave rather than merging into it.
Keep the two statements apart
Photograph condition and photograph provenance, and caption them separately. Blending the two is how a listing ends up claiming more than it can show. Describing memorabilia.
What goes wrong
Shooting through frame glass, photographing a faded signature in warm light to flatter it, and cropping the certificate so the issuer cannot be read.
Questions people ask
Should I take it out of the frame to photograph?
If it is safe to, yes. Glass reflections cost you more than the frame adds.
How do I show a faded signature honestly?
Daylight, and say in the listing where it is faded worst.
Is video useful?
For turning an item slowly and for showing a certificate, yes.
More: selling memorabilia, common mistakes.