Electronics lose value on a clock that nobody in the room controls, which makes honesty about state the whole of the pricing method.
Three states, three markets
Tested and working — you powered it on and can show it. Untested — you cannot or did not, and you say so. For parts or repair — it has a known fault.
These are not one item at three discounts. They attract different buyers, and mixing them up is how a seller ends up with a dispute instead of a sale.
Age is doing most of the work
A device two generations old is competing against a newer one at a shop price the room can look up in a second. Start low, let the room settle it, and do not anchor on what you paid.
What raises the number
- The device booting on camera
- Everything included — charger, cable, box
- A recent battery, said plainly
- Honest faults, named before anyone asks
What a reserve is for here
Mostly it is not needed: this is a category where the market is visible and the room knows it. For something genuinely scarce — vintage audio, a working piece of old hardware, a collected model — a reserve makes sense.
Lots
Cables, adapters and accessories sell as lots and are good filler between the items people came for. Do not bury a working device in a cable lot.
Questions people ask
Should I price against a shop?
Know the shop price, because your room does. Then price the difference between a new boxed one and yours, honestly.
Do faults always lower the price?
A named fault lowers it a little. A hidden fault costs the whole sale. Naming the flaw raises the price.
Is it worth repairing before selling?
Only if the repair is cheap, you can say who did it, and you can show it working afterwards.